Sun, Sea, Sand, Slavery and Sega: Dancing on the Graves of the Dodos Since 1638
‘What are you?’ followed by a mini awkward silence (for me),
to define my approach to the question. Finally, true to the witty and
delightful parasite inside me, I went for- Ahemm, I am still classified as human
I think. Obviously, laughter ensured before I addressed the underlying question-
I am Mauritian and what you just heard was Mauritian Creole. The usual answer
ensued- Sounds so poetic (huge inner snort in my mind to that) and so French!
Well, why so (Why French I mean!)?- Mauritian Creole can be
thought of as an amalgam of languages. So, let’s stroll down memory lane!
The Mauritian Bouillabaisse- a delightful pot of cultures,
languages, and just a dash of simmering identity crises. Being an
Indo-Mauritian (by that, I mean myself, my dear Lord) gives you a front-row
seat to the Creole conundrum- where history, colonization, and modernity swirl
into a complex narrative.
Let’s start with "Creole," a word as versatile as
Mauritian cuisine. Officially, it’s a linguistic badge of honour—Mauritian
Creole, the language that unites us all- when English, Mandarin, Tamil, Telegu,
Urdu, Hindi, French, or Bhojpuri just won’t cut it. But socially? Oh, it’s a
minefield of existential crisis. In the Mauritian context (Creole isn’t limited
to Mauritius), Creole refers to descendants of slaves, but it also doubles as
shorthand for "culturally mixed, undefined, or just Mauritian with a
twist."
The closest contemporary here in SA is ‘coloured’. Being ‘Coloured’
in South Africa and ‘Creole’ in Mauritius feels like living at the intersection
of two worlds that insist on boxing you in, yet you defy them both. In South
Africa, "Coloured" was (and is) an official label originating from the
country’s painful past- the elephant in the room, Apartheid. In Mauritius,
being Creole carries its own set of cultural weight—linked to resilience and
vibrancy, yet often sidelined in a society obsessed with categorization.
Creole and Coloured, the two Cs being an oxymoron of sorts:
belonging everywhere yet nowhere, blending seamlessly into the mosaic of both
nations while remaining a paradox within themselves.
U-Turn back to Mauritius- none of this cultural fusion
happened without the extensive and tragic history of colonization, a brutal
tale that would make even the grimmest Netflix drama seem light-hearted. First,
the Dutch so casually showed up, deforested the land, and made the Dodo extinct
because, apparently, they didn’t get the memo about biodiversity. Then came the
French, who turned the island into a sugar plantation ‘paradise’, complete with
enslaved labour shipped from Africa—a system so oppressive even Dickens might
have deemed it too dark to write about. Enter the British, who abolished
slavery (great PR move) but promptly replaced it with indentured labourers from
India (my ancestors I might add), setting up a system so exploitative you’d
think it came with a colonial user manual- In today’s world, think
Bangladeshis. You were informed that you are going to find gold under rocks (literally
that was what my ancestors were told!), and well, here came Indiana Jones {on a
budget}, only here- the sirdar/overseer had the whip!
Mark Twain once quipped, “Mauritius was made first, and then
heaven; and that heaven was copied after Mauritius.” But let’s be real—he
wasn’t around to witness the generational trauma left in the wake of
colonization.
Colonial, Colonisation, Colonise and so on- What is that
umbrella that encompasses all this? Colonisation: the ultimate historical
“oops” moment where powerful nations decided, “What if we owned everything?”
and then went ahead and did just that. It wasn’t just land-grabbing—it was a
full-on buffet of exploitation, with a side of cultural erasure and a heaping
dose of superiority complex. European empires treated the globe like it was
Monopoly, except instead of houses and hotels, they slapped down plantations,
railroads, and trading posts.
Let’s not forget the ‘convenient’ side effects of
colonization:
Slavery: “Free labour” is just what you call it when human
lives don’t count.
Cultural theft: Art, spices, languages—anything shiny or
useful—looted and displayed in museums where we were allowed to marvel at our
ancestors' belongings.
Borders: Those neat lines on maps? Drawn by men who’d never
visited these places, creating conflicts that still burn centuries later.
Who doesn’t want a Condo on Mars where you sip wine and
look at the Earth? NB. Mars' atmosphere is 99.87% carbon dioxide with 0.13%
oxygen. Well, hello carbon dioxide narcosis and … death! (Elon Musk apparently
plans to make Mars habitable by 2050!). Mars selfies on the way!
Well- We are Terraformers!
We bow to no one! (Aragorn to Frodo and nowadays, well…
basically every ‘motivator’ telling you- you are special, and you can puff
cotton candy out of your bum if you really want it.)
Anyways, back to Maurice! For me, an Indo-Mauritian, being
Creole in today’s world can mean embracing Mauritian Creole as your lingua
franca while dodging the socio-cultural tug-of-war between Indian traditions
and the seductive rhythms of Sega music. On one hand, you’ve got Bollywood weddings
and samosas; on the other, you’re drawn to the universal chill vibes of
"La Plage" culture. Because let's face it- Creole food and its
embrace of spices? It’s a siren call. Having a culinary delight of Cochon
marron, Ti Vitesse, Boeuf or Salmi cerf (Wild pig, hedgehog, beef and deer in
that order) while all the Hindu Gods are looking down at me and shaking their
heads in disbelief, well, it is my speciality!
Nowadays, to be "Creole" is less about race and
more about attitude—a laid-back, hakuna-matata philosophy in the land of
relentless sun, sea, sand and debates about colonial hangovers. It’s a way of
saying, “Look, I don’t care where your ancestors were shipped from; let’s just
eat dholl puri and dance to sega ‘Caïambo’ by Ti Frère.
NB. Sega has been included in UNESCO's Intangible Cultural
Heritage lists. For my dear islanders who despise this musical variety-
remember, it is about all our ancestors and their struggles. Sega was the
rhythm of resistance, born from the fire of slavery and carried on by the
spirit of freedom. Of course, you can always howl on Baby on that little high
pitch voice we all love. No offence!
Ah, how can I talk about Mauritius and not mention the Dodo—the world’s most tragic punchline! Imagine being so adorably naive that you don’t realize humans, the ultimate apex predators armed with 100% hunger and zero ethics (as usual), have just crash-landed on your island. And yes, the dodo waddled right up to them like, “Oh, hi! Welcome to Mauritius! Would you like a tour?”
The only tour it got was straight to the cooking pot. And
that was the end of the Dodo......
The sheer irony of the dodo’s demise? It didn’t just go extinct—it practically volunteered for it.
Not a predator? Check.
Can’t fly? Check.
Lays only one egg a year? Check.
The dodo was as if nature’s way of saying, “Let’s see how
fast humans can mess this up.”
This bird became the ultimate cautionary tale: destroy an
entire species, and what do you get? A footnote in history, a mascot for bad
decisions, and a spot on a Mauritian beach towel. The dodo isn’t just
extinct—it is the poster child for trusting the wrong crowd.
What about Slavery? Oh well, slavery, it’s not just a thing
of the past- We’ve upgraded to the digital realm. Enter today’s master: The
Algorithm. It doesn’t whip you, but it sure keeps you scrolling. Instead of
plantations, we’re confined to tiny screens, endlessly liking, commenting, and
doomscrolling through a curated hellscape of influencers, ads, and unrealistic
goals.
In the 1800s, people were sold at auctions; now, we
willingly sell our privacy for a "free" app. Who needs shackles when
you’ve got TikTok challenges? Let’s be honest, our new ‘bosses’ don’t need
overseers, they’ve got notifications. That little red dot on your phone? It’s a
modern-day overseer yelling, “You’re behind on your digital chores! Post,
engage, obey!”
Forget whips, we’ve got streaks to maintain. Think about it:
you spend hours curating the perfect post, filtering your face to Barbie-level
perfection, only for the algorithm to decide that 12 people should see it.
Humiliating, isn’t it? Well, dear netizens, try leaving The Matrix for once.
Dark humour aside, the parallels are unsettling. The chains
may be invisible, but they’re real. We measure self-worth in likes and
followers, trade our time and attention for fleeting dopamine hits, and work
endless hours to buy devices that tether us further. It's not if you're
enslaved; it’s how. Slavery used to be imposed—now, it’s opted into.
But let’s be sincere- Elon Musk, Mark Zuckerberg and etc, they
created products. You can use them for your business, your well being or for
being a modern slave to ‘The Matrix’- It is ALWAYS your choice. So do not blame
it on them.
And well, there is a very simple principle even in Computer
Science and IT - GIGO. No, nothing about a Gigolo here. Just GIGO- Garbage In
Garbage Out. Well, as Mauritian mums used to bark at us back in the time- ‘Caca
dans latet’. Laughs!!! Basically, let me demystify it for you - you're like a
prawn: big eyes, tiny brain, and a line of poop running straight through your middle
{just the exit point is your mouth}. You can still change the meaning for
yourself though- Game-changing In Godlike Out! (Laughs and Smirks!)
Let’s end all this on a positive vibe: Mauritius, Île
Maurice- a tiny speck of paradise floating in the Indian Ocean, where sugarcane
fields stretch as far as the eye can see, and every beach looks like it’s been
pulled straight out of a postcard. This island packs a punch for its size, with
cultures mingling like the spices in a good curry all rolled into one delicious
roti.
The locals? Warm, welcoming, and always ready to chat (or
argue) about which place has the best dholl puri or boulette. Nature’s beauty
is abundant, from the turquoise lagoons to the peak of Le Morne and the lush
tea plantations at Bois Cheri. And don’t forget the infamous dodo—you’ll see
its statue at some point.
Mauritius is proof that good things can come in small
packages, especially if you’ve got an appetite for fresh seafood, sunsets and
Lambic(rum) that drown all your problems.
Maurice, c’est un plaisir!
I am proud to be Mauritian [might I add - and Creole?]! (Well, Creole can be ethnic classification if
you want to start a fight, or it can be love/acceptance for your own country. Let’s
simplify it- I am Creole at heart and Indo-Mauritian by birth!)
How can I not mention our national anthem? Here is how it goes (YouTube videos please to feel the vibes!):
Glory to thee, Motherland
O Motherland of mine.
Sweet is thy beauty,
Sweet is thy fragrance,
Around thee we gather
As one people,
As one nation,
In peace, justice and liberty.
Beloved Country,
May God bless thee
For ever and ever
And well, on a very different musical note now…
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